Yes, another "New Build, Please Help!" thread...

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Amadeus
Amadeus
11 posts
11 posts
13 Jun 2012 4:18pm
I'm trying to figure all this **** out on my own, because, well, that's the fun part. But I have a few lingering questions. And probably a lot more to come, sigh.

I'm building a Class 5(ish) Y-Over design.

Here are my specific questions:

- Adjustable mast rake? I see some variation of this a lot, so how does the adjusting bolt actually contact the base of the mast? A metal sleeve?
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- Chassis tubing. I gather that the legs are 6061 T6 Alu, roughly 50mm in dia with a 4-5mm wall. How about the steel chassis? It obviously has to sleeve the legs, but how thick should the tubing wall be?

- Where the legs and front arm are sleeved it seems like most designs are using just a simple keyhole slot and clamp joint. Since the tubes are round and there is so much stress on the system sideways, why don't these slip? Or am I misunderstanding the design?

- I understand a large part of the benefit of this style of frame comes from it being dynamic and flexing under load. Do I have to worry about over-building the chassis and making it too stiff?

- I already asked this, but I'm going to try out the Pugsley Large Marge (65mm width) with some 20mm thru axle hubs laced with regular bicycle spokes. Really hoping it works cuz damn them things are expensive!

- Also already picked up a 6.3m sail and 460mm carbon mast! Now I'm scared to toss it under the machine. :/

Here are my plans thus far.



Thanks a ton!

(And my closest sailing spot is a 9 hour drive away... why am I building this again?)
landyacht
landyacht
WA
5921 posts
WA, 5921 posts
13 Jun 2012 9:54pm
to stop tubing moving.....LOTS of clamping!!!!!!
the steel tube probably needs to be a high tensile steel like steam pipe,cold dawn seamless tube or unhoned hydraulic tube. in the past car tail shafts have been used.
I use a combination of 3mm and 2mm stuff for the degrees of fit, you could use the same type of steel instead of the ally.
from your drawings , maybe a ministyle front fork might not be the best choice on a 5.
re the mast adjustment , some adjust from the top of the step , some from the bottom, you'll have to think that one out
Amadeus
Amadeus
11 posts
11 posts
15 Jun 2012 2:12am
Thanks for the reply, I'll have to take another look at the front end. I haven't found any clear diagrams or photos of the "C" style found on the stock 5's, can you recall any examples that would be helpful?
desertyank
desertyank
1264 posts
1264 posts
15 Jun 2012 2:59am
Amadeus said...

Thanks for the reply, I'll have to take another look at the front end. I haven't found any clear diagrams or photos of the "C" style found on the stock 5's, can you recall any examples that would be helpful?


A couple of flavors that seem to work quite well;



Same 30 degree pivot, but uses the push/push rod, or push/pull cables;

OR;

www.seabreeze.com.au/Articles/Land%20Sailing/Original-Pacific-Magic-Plans-by-Paul-Day_1514690.aspx

This is landyacht's pacific magic yacht. The steering pivot is vertical i think...

Also, look up the "manta" landyachts. There are lots of them here in the states, and they use a fork type steering like a bicycle.

It doesn't matter which flavor you decide on, just as long as you can have tons of fun with it!

Welcome to the forum, and above all else; take lots of pictures!!!


Just curious, which part of the U.S. are you sailing in? I'm in SoCal....
Amadeus
Amadeus
11 posts
11 posts
15 Jun 2012 6:16am
Oh, that's more or less what I have in mind, except with cables. I just didn't really draw it out yet.

I'm up in Portland, OR so Alvord is my closest spot. I'll try to get out there for the meetup in Sept!
Nikrum
Nikrum
TAS
1972 posts
TAS, 1972 posts
15 Jun 2012 9:52pm
One of you guys may be able to explain why you use the Blank and fillet system of mounting the steering Head? I would think that cutting the Chassis Tube and insetting the Head would be more efficient and less work.
An insight into your designs would be good.
Ron
PS; John did you make it to being an Idiot?
landyacht
landyacht
WA
5921 posts
WA, 5921 posts
15 Jun 2012 8:57pm


another example of a suitable class 5 front, maybe the clemco could put up his version too
Clemco
Clemco
430 posts
430 posts
16 Jun 2012 2:29pm







It may be a bit complicated for the first-time builder.
The steering head is mounted on a pivot with a lever slung underneath wrapped in bicycle inner tubes to create a shock absorber. Works really well and is adjusted by rolling on more or less tubes. There are a few more pictures on my profile from a previous post.
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