Have you had a look through this article? www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Land-Yacht-Sailing/Construction/Build-a-Landyacht-Lake-Lefroy-Mini-Yacht/ . Gives lots of alternatives for axles in the design. 20mm stub axles = M20 bolts with about 100mm of un-threaded shank. As for those wheels they'll do the job easily. I found a few other suppliers with a lot of googling and got the price to under £30 each.



These were £4.95 each off EBay...but I've had to fit hubs, spacers, and decent bearings, so now £11 each and a lot of hard work/machining time + I've had to go Imperial to make it all work. But that fits my budget There are odd bits and pieces that are hard to find in the UK/Eire but theres alternatives out there somewhere

Cheers Col

Yo Ger',
Earlier there was a great deal of discussion on the Why's and Wherefores of wheels.
The general impression of why Fallshaw? They are a high quality plastic wheel!
Having said that, another reason for using them is. Here in Aus' where some of these guys sail it can get up to better than 40deg'C and certain plastics will soften and warp under those conditions.. I doubt that it would be much fun having a tire come adrift at 80kph Could cause you to have something to worry about.
I doubt strongly that you guys up in that neck of the woods would have to worry about that way.
I have used the cheap Chinese versions and don't have a lot of confidence in them as I hit a stone side ways and took a 2" piece out of the rim of one. Again Cold can be a problem as the plastic can become a little more brittle under those conditions as well. Care must be taken when using any wheel.

The Cheap Chinese ones did not have quality bearings in them so I re machined them to suit available quality Bearings with Locking Ring Groove in them this helped to do as the Flange does on the cheaper version though I believe that you can purchase a High Quality Bearing with Flanged Housing.

It pays when fitting your bearings to have a spacer between the bearings and a sliding fit over the axle, when tightening up the Wheel nut the wheel should turn freely not allowing the bearing inner to move. I also cut groves into the Wheel Nut (Constellations) and Drilling a Hole through for a Split Pin. You also should hunt the Hardware Stores for a Pair of PVC End Caps to cover the lot as it is an OH & S thing, Axle stubs can rip your leg.

As I am retired I have had a little extra cash and since gone over to Alloy Rims

Hi .looks like peter lynns have won the day .I have a method of connecting the wheels to the chassis using Stud Connecters See Photo they come in a variety of sizes M20 Thread size. 60mm long . 30MM Face to Face. This would fit inside 35x35x2 Square Tube part of rear axle.

you could always drill out the first 20 - 30 mm of thread giving a good strong point minus the thread shear point!

Ger',
Kite Buggies have a different Dynamic involved in their operation. Where I you I would stick with the tried and true.. It is your build though but a Long bolt with a heavy Washer welded to it as a Stopper for the Inner Race, with a Small OD Shim washer as a clearance spacer. Weld (Welding is one method) the excess Bolt into the Axle using the Heavy washer as a location point, Keep this in mind any cutting or threading will interfere with the overall dia and cause possible week points in the bolts flexing. Using a nut and Split Pin to retain the Wheel is probably the simplest and safest way. A bent axle is far safer than a Busted one.
Ron

Hi Everyone As you can see from the photos I have acquired two sets of axles ,Short stub ones are 25 mm Dia around 140 length .Next set are 20mm Dia. 300 mm length. These are Front end Spindles from Honda CB400 Motor Bike. They are hollow in the middle saying that they should be strong enough .Honda Spindles will be able to be modified for Peter lynn buggy wheels. I am still moving at slow pace summer will be over before I get anything finished