For some days I have pondering how to cut the mast step to fit the spine.I imagined some kind of jig affair which would involve my drill being set at the required angle with the hole saw.As I was trying to decide what to do (a not unpleasant pastime ), I found my way back into this forum and discovered somebody had already found a much better way.I came across a Tube Coping Calculator devised by MetalGeek which is sheer genius.The online program works by putting in the dimensions of the two pipes and a pattern emerges which can be traced onto the pipe.How fantastic is that! So I printed off my pattern and cut it out thus:

I shaped the rest using my bench grinder

The clever metal geek program factored in the angle as well which I set at 75 degrees.The next step was to shape the flare at the top which I did employing the technique described in an earlier post.The tool is simply a piece of steel with a slot cut rounded off

Not the best photo but you get the idea.I dismantled the windsurfer boom and hope to use these parts in the seat assembly

Chook2 said..
You have done some really nice work.

I wonder about the 15 degree rake on the mast step though. It does seem a lot for a fixed step.

My "fixed" non adjustable mast steps have slowly decreased over different yachts, from 10 degrees down to 3 for larger than 6m2 sails.

Loving all the photos as you build. Well done.

Thanks for the encouragement . The rake angle was what Clem the Clever had used in his version so I was simply following his lead.His design has an adjusting screw which allows for +or- 5 degrees.I have yet to start on the weldathon so there is time to adjust the rake if that is recommended by the wise and experienced heads on this forum.I welcome input.
By the way I have decided not to go with the front wheel and fork assembly shown in the earlier posts because the wheel is too big.That explains the appearance of the child's bike in photo of the ski purchase. Cutting and shaping the steering head was a doddle having done this once before.I guess after a few such builds the speed of construction increases.As a newbie I spend quite a bit of time trying to avoid mistakes and figuring out how to do certain things.

Thanks very much Clem.I couldn't tell from the sketch what the angle was supposed to be and I was going off your skimini rebuild post where the angle is given at 15 degrees.

And marked out in white pencil.The unspoken understanding in my neighbourhood is no noisy machines on Sunday so the reshaping will have to be done after work next week .

Clemco said..
Ah yes sorry I did build that one at 15 degrees, but once I put the sail up I realized I should have made it 10, so I drew the plan with 10 degrees but forgot to dimension that. It's not worth me changing mine now. I will have to put up with it.
I would recommend the 10 degrees rake. You will have the adjustment to rake the mast from 5 to 15.
Nice job so far buy the way. Where can we get a copy of that template drawing program?
Clem.

I googled"Tube Coping Calculator" and got:-
www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CCUQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fmetalgeek.com%2Fstatic%2Fcope_custom.pcgi&ei=vUZxVKqRPIOD8QWTkIEI&usg=AFQjCNEoAf0RyWShsj12oonc0XdkvuifHw&bvm=bv.80185997,d.dGc

I have discovered a new use for my earmuffs.The noise from possible neighbours complaints is eliminated.Here is the recut mast step

And yet another dry fit on a short section of spine material

Thanks for the tip Chook.What is a die grind?

I bought all the nuts and bolts from a specialty store (much much cheaper than the big orange/green ones).I also cut out the seat from some ply I had in my shed.If the world came to an end except my shed, mankind could start again with what I have in there.I made the seat narrower at one end as shown.The weldathon happens next week

Best not to breath the toxic fumes from welding gal.

Test Sail your yacht before you spend the time and money sand blasting and powder coating. You may want to make changes or adjustments.

Ben.