I would be inclined to set the seat so that it is sitting level with the ground about 200-250mm off the ground, otherwise its all looking happy.
enjoy your building experience.
which beach do you plan to sail on.

Aus,

Well, I hope it turns out solid enough.
Fisly-rules seem to contain some interesting points indeed.

Initially I meant to make a closed seat, style Standart, but for possible repairs
and seat-construction & design-tryout, I'll keep it open with an optional solid cover
to keep out cold (Belgium, you know), dirt, sand & water...



LY,

Here around Belgium & southwest Netherlands we only have sandy beaches.
Planning first tests on a little airfield nearby.

I got some "spare meters" between the rear wheels.
Will measure out how much cm-s I can lose by reducing the width to get it down more
+
when putting full body-weight-pressure at the centre of the triangle,
it goes down even more.

And if that all is not enough, I still need to really attach & finish the wheel-axles, and if needed then I'll just modify the whole big axle-arm-thing (how do you guys call this piece?) at the seat.

For the moment it's quite flexible, no idea how bouncy it's going to be, but it'll surely absorb the bumps (at least, that's what I'm hoping for.)

How much bumps are those things supposed to absorb? What's the consequence of to bouncy frames?

hi there freco,

the construction does look very nice,esspecialy the seat,
nice technique with the bandstrap to bend the plywood,

i,m sailing a LLF mini,build and inspired of this forum myselve on a beatch called brouwersdam in holland you might know,



i found out that sinse the sand is quite soft it tend's to be a bit of a bumpy ride.and weelbarrow weels tend to dig in.
this will tipp you over quite easely.
if you look for the right surfice ,near the waterfront at low tide,
it is a beatiful ride!

however you might want to concider to lower your rig a bit so it wont tipp over that easely

greetz Jacco

Looking good, and keep going and posting pics

If it were me I'd go with your standart seat idea and continue the seat to the front wheel, just because it should look cool (no practical reason) . No reason to cover the top in, other than what you have already stated.

What are the planned measurments of your yacht (ie: length and Width of wheelbase)?

What grade aluminium are you using(tensile strength)

Plywood cut, attached with tiewraps & partly glue-stiched together with polyester.

Sadly the frame looks too high considering the seat and related head-height.
I'll probably cut out a part of the bottom at the sides to fit in the tubes and to lower the frame a couple of cm's.
I didn't like the flat bottom of the first tryout, seems like I should have sticked to the plan.



Considering to attach some extra elbow-space-"boxes" at the sides that have been cut away.
Bottom will be filled with foam and closed with plywood.

that is looking rather lovely

FreCo,
Given that this is your first build it looks great.. Learn because it won't be your last build.. You have the BUG and it will lead you into some interesting places.
"Do or Die" is the motto..
Ron

we shove 1 mast up anaother all the time. initially it feels soft but as you sheet on it gets stiffer. a great way to make a landyacht mast

Proceedings...

PU-foam added to give the borders thickness. PU is polyester-resistant, so no meltdown in contact.




Back/head-part shaped, rasped, glassed and filled & glued with isolation-foam from a can.
Can-foam used to fill and glue a bunch of foam-pieces into the bottom, then shaped with saw and glasspaper.

some great shapes happening there freco, its fun isnt it

As finishing the seat is currently difficult due to incompatibility of polyester & cold weather,
I've started to think what I can do myself about fitting & finishing parts of the frame.

While welding alu is not (yet?) one of my powers, I started measuring & fitting the big Y-axles.
Due to welding, the "female"-sides of the frame are too small to insert the big axles.

So I took a rod and sawed a long slip into it, just wide enough to fit some 60grit-sandpaper in it.
Then, using a drill with the sanding-rod, I tried sanding the inside of the receiving part. Yet, it doesn't seem to be the nice & quick solution.


Any idea how to make male & female fit again? What's the Good Solution?

Use 40-grit? Then 60? 120?
Do I try to sand only the inside where the outside has been welded?
Or do I sand the whole innertube at the welds?
How do I know where exactly to sand? And how much?