Lefroy Mini Plans again from Washington State

> 10 years ago
Reply
Register to post, see what you've read, and subscribe to topics.
webfooted
webfooted
13 posts
13 posts
8 Jul 2012 12:11pm
Yes, another one of the new builders. To start with I want to thank you guys for the "welcome" page. Very strait forward and to the point. I was hesitant to post until I read that. To begin with I am 72 years old and a good welder so the frames were a walk in the park. I am building two so that I will have some one to compete with. Only problem so far is the "angle of the dangle" on the mast step. I could not find the dimension in the plans so I lofted it off the drawings. I am sure that is not the most accurate way so my question is how critical is that angle?? On the faster designs I see that they are adjustable. Would that be a benefit on a mini?? As for the wheels, I am using some wheel barrow wheels for now but in the future I will move up to something with a little more class. My question is how about some fat tires like the kit/buggies use?? Our beaches are quite soft. Thanks for your patience with us beginners.....
Gizmo
Gizmo
SA
2865 posts
SA, 2865 posts
8 Jul 2012 3:52pm
The mast rake angle is 10 degrees.... It's one of those measurements that is hard to fine and every body misses it.
As to fat tyres, brilliant if you've got soft sand or grass areas but they will be just a bit slower on hard surfaces.
Another thing that may not be in the plans and that now is commonly used is a strap welded from one side of the mast tube under the main spine to the other side of the mast tube just to give it a bit of extra support.
sn
sn
WA
2775 posts
sn sn
WA, 2775 posts
8 Jul 2012 2:24pm
Welcome to the assylum!

For the wheels, the "barrow" type wheels were adopted as a world wide standard and keep this class of landyacht roughly even in competition.
As you are running on soft ground and not in official events, this restriction need not apply!

An easy fix could be to keep the original wheel rims and just fit oversize tyres.
Standard tyres on these rims are 4" wide- you could probably fit 6" wide tyres and suitable inner tubes and then mess about with air pressures until you are happy.

edited a bit cause gizmo bounced in while I was poking away at the keyboard

all the best!

stephen
Nikrum
Nikrum
TAS
1972 posts
TAS, 1972 posts
8 Jul 2012 7:49pm
Hi WF,
Have a look at this site.. www.briskites.com.au/index.php?l=product_detail&p=548 It may well have just what you're looking for..

Anyway there is nothing to stop you putting std tires back on for competition.. Barrow wheels are only a dimension anyways. I will be corrected if I am wrong but I don't think they have to be made of plastic..
Ron

PS, Don't go thinking you are the oldest sailor we have.. There was mention of a 78yro the other day.. And I thought I was a Silly Old Fart[}:)]
Test pilot 1
Test pilot 1
WA
1430 posts
WA, 1430 posts
8 Jul 2012 8:32pm
You are 'correct' again nikrum...................................................................................................................................... you are a silly old fart.
All hot smelly air!
webfooted
webfooted
13 posts
13 posts
8 Jul 2012 10:33pm
Thanks guys!! I will check the 10 degrees this morning. The reason I am building two Lefroy Mini's is so that I can make changes to one and compare performance to the other. Mine will be the one that preforms best. Besides I can take a friend along. I am really curious about the steering and what effect the larger tires would have both in diameter and width. Would love to have someone to compete with. This is probably like purchasing a new car. From then on you see them on every corner. Just need to find out which tavern (or beach) they hang out on.<G>
desertyank
desertyank
1264 posts
1264 posts
9 Jul 2012 1:04am
Welcome webby!

Where in WA are you going to sail? There are others lurking in the internet who live somewhere close to you I think...

The main thing is "have fun"

John
webfooted
webfooted
13 posts
13 posts
9 Jul 2012 7:49am
Thanks for the heads up on the profile. I got that straightened out. Yes I did get 10 degrees.<G> Must have been blind luck. Now I am trying to read all the posts you guys have put up on masts and sails. Trying to figure out what would be good size for a novice in light to moderate winds. I will leave the heavy winds to the thrill seekers. Origin of the avatar:
Gizmo
Gizmo
SA
2865 posts
SA, 2865 posts
9 Jul 2012 10:00am
Searching and reading all the posts will take ages.... just ask the question and we will answer it for you or send a link so you find the answer.
In answer to your sail size question the standard sort of size is about 4.5-6 sqm, there is a section on how to re-cut the sail to best suit a land yacht on the forum.
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Land-Yacht-Sailing/Sail-making/How-I-recut-sailboard-sails-to-suit-landyachts/
Nikrum
Nikrum
TAS
1972 posts
TAS, 1972 posts
9 Jul 2012 11:50am
OK Webfooted,
Gizmo is too polite to mention it but I am a realist[}:)]. I'm guessing you're the little fella on the trike? One has to look realistically at what he is going to do and where he is going to operate his machine as well as average wind conditions etc. Given that you would appear to be around 200lbs I would suggest you go for a larger than smaller sail area. Surface type that you will be operating on (Sand, Tarmac, Grass etc) will also be a deciding factor. I for instance operate mainly on Hard Sand and used to sail on a disused Airfield section. It all has to do with rolling resistance roughness of surface etc. Then again you need to look at you're intended behavior i.e. Hooning/ Wheelies, Speed sailing etc (Ain't nothing like sqeeling rubber) . I have two sails each for my Land Yachts one for lower wind speeds and the other for Speed sailing, to start with you probably would go for a larger fuller sail good for low winds and learning to handle your Mini also good for smaller venues.

Evidently you are fond of riding in Parades so you could even tow your LLF Mini behind your Trike--------with, perhaps, the "Trouble and Strife" or Girlfriend steering it [}:)].
In the End Start Building and as the Gizmo said "Ask and the answers will come"
Ron
sn
sn
WA
2775 posts
sn sn
WA, 2775 posts
9 Jul 2012 5:25pm
Hi again Webfoot,
You have already said you will mostly be using a sand surface.(high drag)

The best sail for this type of surface is an unmodified windsurfing sail of a decent size, 4.5m minimum, larger is better. Preferably with a bit of a belly to it- not so much a dead flat sheet.
flat= better for high speed, belly= low down grunt
Use a standard windsurfing boom, and a standard mast with a reinforcing stiffener in the lower meter. (close fitting timber is best)

You may need to add some length to the mast- you could make the stiffener a little longer so it protrudes out the bottom of the mast to gain some height- and extend the top of the mast by jamming a vacuum cleaner pipe on top.

To work out your mast length, drop the assembled mast and sail into the mast step, sit in the seat, work out how much clearance your skull has when wearing helmet, add some extra for mast flex under tension and add as much length as needed to suit.

The standard unmodified sail will limit your top speed, but give you more low down grunt to get moving on the softer surfaces like dirt or grassed ground.

If you have access to hard ground like concrete, bitumen, claypans, salt lakes etc then you can start messing around with modified windsurfing sails and conventional type booms as you have the potential for much greater speed on the harder (low drag) surfaces.

all the best,

stephen.
webfooted
webfooted
13 posts
13 posts
10 Jul 2012 8:30am
You guys are going to have me flying in no time. I picked up a carbon fiber mast and fiberglass mast plus 6 sails and a boom for $65 thanks to craigslist. The glass mast is a little fuzzy and needs a coat of epoxy and I am thinking about another layer of glass cloth as long as it doesn't change the flex of the mast. Probably not something to worry about at my skill level. But the grandkids will push the limit in no time. This weekend I will do an inventory and take some pictures just to show what I have and did. Thanks!!
Nikrum
Nikrum
TAS
1972 posts
TAS, 1972 posts
10 Jul 2012 4:49pm
Webfoot,
You is gettin' t' idea. Pick it up as cheap as you can where you can..Great stuff you rotter, that was cheap!!

The fuzzy mast is a breeze to fix www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Land-Yacht-Sailing/Construction/Cuddly-Mast/?SearchTerms=Smurf

I scraped the Blue Smurf back with the back edge of a knife. Broken Glass will do the job as well then sanded from there.. the web address will take you there..

It looks good but I have yet to use it.. The wind hasn't been all that good recently.

Anyway the above will halp to start you off..
Ron

Test pilot 1
Test pilot 1
WA
1430 posts
WA, 1430 posts
10 Jul 2012 3:12pm
It will be easier to just apply some resin with a bit of talcum powder mixed in to cover and bind the furry bits. the advantage of the talcum additive is that as the mast surface wears over time the talc is released giving a slippery surface for the sail to rotate on. the was done with my "new"(old unused) 30% carbon fibre mast 4 yrs ago and sails still slip nicely.
Nikrum
Nikrum
TAS
1972 posts
TAS, 1972 posts
10 Jul 2012 8:41pm
OK! TP1 What proportions Talc to Resin??
Ron
Test pilot 1
Test pilot 1
WA
1430 posts
WA, 1430 posts
11 Jul 2012 11:09am
To be precise enough talc to stop the resin from running to freely. This allows you to cover your mast without having to rotate it whilst it is drying(stops drips forming)
desertyank
desertyank
1264 posts
1264 posts
12 Jul 2012 1:20am
Test pilot 1 said...

To be precise enough talc to stop the resin from running to freely. This allows you to cover your mast without having to rotate it whilst it is drying(stops drips forming)


Well Ron,

You certainly couldn't ask for a more precise formula than that! For those that have a hard time with all the complicated mathematics TP1 has presented here, I have an even simpler formula;

'Not too much, not too little"[}:)]
Nikrum
Nikrum
TAS
1972 posts
TAS, 1972 posts
12 Jul 2012 9:59am
Yep! John, You are right, us Aussies are known for our Pedantic measurements. A bit like throwing a hand full of Crap at a blanket. What Sticks will do the job..
Ron[}:)]
sn
sn
WA
2775 posts
sn sn
WA, 2775 posts
12 Jul 2012 11:25am
I wouldnt bother with sanding or scraping the "furry" strands off the old mast- just hit it with the resin/talc mix.

The loose strands of fibreglass or carbon would add strength to the mast while combining with the resin/talc.

Stephen.
Gizmo
Gizmo
SA
2865 posts
SA, 2865 posts
12 Jul 2012 1:28pm
sn said...

I wouldnt bother with sanding or scraping the "furry" strands off the old mast- just hit it with the resin/talc mix.

The loose strands of fibreglass or carbon would add strength to the mast while combining with the resin/talc.

Stephen.


Actually removing them could be harmful .... glass or carbon fibres in the pores of the skin on your hands or arms can be SO painful.
webfooted
webfooted
13 posts
13 posts
12 Jul 2012 10:29pm


Where in WA are you going to sail?
The main thing is "have fun"

John


You know, that is a good question! I have looked on the internet and called a couple of the beach cities. No answers yet. There is a place SW of here called Long Beach where they let cars onto the beach. Figured I would start there and maybe the Boeing parking lot on a Sunday afternoon.
webfooted
webfooted
13 posts
13 posts
12 Jul 2012 11:27pm
sn said...

Hi again Webfoot,
You have already said you will mostly be using a sand surface.(high drag)

The best sail for this type of surface is an unmodified windsurfing sail of a decent size, 4.5m minimum, larger is better. Preferably with a bit of a belly to it- not so much a dead flat sheet.
flat= better for high speed, belly= low down grunt
Use a standard windsurfing boom, and a standard mast with a reinforcing stiffener in the lower meter. (close fitting timber is best)
stephen.


As for the mast/boom I think this is the best way to go. I got all the sails out and spread them all over the yard. What a conglomeration. From 3.5 meters to 6.0 meters. Guess I will just stick them on and see what happens. There is one sail that has a long foot, 92 inches (2.3 meters) and 167" (4.3 meters) at the luff. Looks like it would work on a 8' pram. I am going to assume that the sail gets the belly from the curve in the luff because when laid out they are flat and would be easy to sew. We will try them all before asking questions. Thanks stephen
webfooted
webfooted
13 posts
13 posts
14 Jul 2012 12:06pm



Front end is coming together. I chose 5/8 " cold rolled steel and 1" 095 wall square tube. As you can see I just tacked everything together so I can set the frame up on three wheels and have a good look. I read somewhere in another thread that the angle of the dangle is important on the caster and already I can see from the pictures that the contact patch is going to be ahead of the castor angle. I'll take some better pictures tomorrow.
webfooted
webfooted
13 posts
13 posts
14 Jul 2012 1:29pm



This is what I used to bend the 90 degrees in the steering stem. That is a piece of 1 inch cold rolled and the stop is 1/4" plate. I use propane and oxygen to heat the metal. Cheaper than acetylene.
Nikrum
Nikrum
TAS
1972 posts
TAS, 1972 posts
14 Jul 2012 11:29pm
Wf, (Webfooted),
OK! Up until now I've been playing nicely. More info' on the Two sails on the RH side in your gallery. To my eye the mast curve looks pretty near to what you need and being so lean they may get a bit of speed so at this point I would keep at least one for a later date and possible re-cut.
The Engineering is looking pretty Schmick as well.

Ron
webfooted
webfooted
13 posts
13 posts
14 Jul 2012 10:09pm
Nikrum said...
so at this point I would keep at least one for a later date and possible re-cut.
The Engineering is looking pretty Schmick as well.

Ron



I'll bite, what does "pretty Schmick" mean??
webfooted
webfooted
13 posts
13 posts
14 Jul 2012 10:42pm
Nikrum said... More info' on the Two sails on the RH side in your gallery. To my eye the mast curve looks pretty near to what you need and being so lean they may get a bit of speed so at this point I would keep at least one for a later date and possible re-cut.

Ron



My apologies, I did not know the pictures would be posted before I used them. Figured on taking individual pictures with sails mounted and start another thread to discuss them. I have a Pfaff sewing machine left over from when we lived aboard a sail boat. Not planning on disposing of any of the sails. Just cut them up.<G> Never can tell what we might come up with.........Terry
landyacht
landyacht
WA
5921 posts
WA, 5921 posts
15 Jul 2012 12:33am
webfooted said...




Front end is coming together. I chose 5/8 " cold rolled steel and 1" 095 wall square tube. As you can see I just tacked everything together so I can set the frame up on three wheels and have a good look. I read somewhere in another thread that the angle of the dangle is important on the caster and already I can see from the pictures that the contact patch is going to be ahead of the castor angle. I'll take some better pictures tomorrow.

I would predict that 1 good bump will bend that 5/8 section,but I do like the concept

Nikrum
Nikrum
TAS
1972 posts
TAS, 1972 posts
15 Jul 2012 10:20am
webfooted said...

Nikrum said...
so at this point I would keep at least one for a later date and possible re-cut.
The Engineering is looking pretty Schmick as well.

Ron



I'll bite, what does "pretty Schmick" mean??


OK! Wf,
I thought given our mobs mentality, we stole it from your mob??

Schmick. Least ways that is how it is pronounced and is short for Mickey Schmick. A term we used a lot in the forces referring to the quality of the job. "Now they look really Mickey Schmick/Good/Great. On the other hand if someone should say it is "Mickey Mouse" you should feel insulted.

www.fluther.com/16107/how-did-we-come-up-with-the-term-mickey-mouse-to/

www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=schmick

Can't do you no better than that.[}:)]
Ron
webfooted
webfooted
13 posts
13 posts
15 Jul 2012 10:08am
landyacht said..
I would predict that 1 good bump will bend that 5/8 section,but I do like the concept


The reason I picked the 5/8 is that it fit the bearings in the wheels and that lead to standardization using all the same bearings everywhere. I agree, if this thing decides to "rock and roll" (go fast) you bet we will move up. There are bearings that fit the wheels and goose neck and go up to 7/8 inside. Cold rolled is always stiffer and no mill scale. I used the set collars so that once it is on three wheels I can adjust the goose neck up and down till I am happy with the way it looks, then tack weld into place and go for a ride. Wife had a yard sale today (Saturday) so didn't get much done. We are at the start of summer. Projects get more attention in the winter when I can hide out in the shop.<G>..........Terry
Please Register, or first...
Topics Subscribe Reply

Return To Classic site 😭
Or... let us know if a problem, so we can tweak! 😅