Hi there,

I'm Lesley, live in land locked Nottingham UK, absolutely no experience of welding and approximately 15 mins experience of land yachting. I've therefore been voted 'person least likely to build a land yacht' in a recent poll (ok that bit is n't true) but nonetheless here I am.
On the other hand I'm handy enough (for a lady office -worker) and that 15 minutes experience was enough to get me hooked. However, living where I do I can't justify spending the money to buy one and making one looks like a lot of fun...and this forum seems a great source of experience and expertise (better get that in!)
So far I have plenty of wood, 2 windsurfing sails (and a boom although I do n't intend to use it as is) and a two piece mast. I've also procured an arc welder and some rods..although at this particular moment in time I have 'all the gear and no idea'.
My intention was pretty much to follow the plans for a lake lefroy mini on this website..seems sensible. However, I'm also mulling over the idea for going for a shorter version with the direct steering bar behind the wheel (like a 'potty'..the land yacht I had a go on). First question..Why do most land yachts have a single armed fork on front wheel?..I'm thinking about using a kids bike for the front fork and steerer and can't see the point in chopping an arm off.
Second question for now..I've read a lot about the importance of getting some decent wheels..anyone in the UK able to recommend? There is a confusing plethora of wheelbarrow wheels available on ebay and I'm not sure how you tell a good un from a bad un..

Thats all for now folks..will keep reading the forum for more tips!

Shipjack

Hi your best way forward is to look at some yachts and talk to the builders , get yourself up to a sailing day at the York club or go to the regatta this Sunday, Monday. if you need wheels the guy to contact is Dave Green, he builds, races and supplies parts, get the contact details from the York site.

Thanks guys,

Did wonder about the strength of bike forks..might have to think that through a bit more. It definately seems like the front end is the tricky bit but but reading up last night I know fully understand the importance of your angles being right at the front, so it seems a bike fork would need a lot of messing with anyway..I'll therefore probably scrub that idea..although still keen on the simple rod behind the wheel steering.
Can someone just advise on these wheels?..bit more than bog standard wheelbarrow wheels but possibly worth it?

www.allterraintyres.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1093_1319

Looking at the ?26 ones..

cheers!

Shipjack

Shipjack said..

However, I'm also mulling over the idea for going for a shorter version with the direct steering bar behind the wheel (like a 'potty'..the land yacht I had a go on).

Hi again Lesley,

It might be a good idea to stick close to the Lefroy mini plans for your first build, and keep your souped up version for build no.2.

Making the yacht shorter will make it twitchier.

There are a few improvements from the initial design that have been developed, but are hidden away throughout the website.

-a strengthening strap that runs from one side of the mast step [support tube] wrapping underneath the chassis spine and back up the other side of the mast step with short "stitches" of weld to secure it [not one long continuous weld]
This prevents the mast step eventually tearing out of the spine from metal fatigue, mind you - you will have to sail hard-n-fast for an awfully long time to build up that sort of stress.


-The rear of the chassis spine gets sealed with a welded plate to stop eventual stress tearing the chassis spine.

-The braces running from the chassis spine to the rear axles can be 1 1/4" x 1/4" flat bar instead of round bar,
then you can also use this flat bar to bolt your seat and seat belt to - instead of separate short brackets.

-The angled brace that runs from the chassis spine up to the mast step can be made out of the same flat bar, and a series of holes drilled to fit the shackles that you use for your downhaul and sheet-rope.

-Recently, some of the crew have been moving the mast step further forward and a little more upright so bigger sails can be used, which seems to work well.

-Instead of bolting the rear axle extensions into the rear of the frame - you can use spring loaded clips, which can be salvaged from scrapped adjustable windsurfing booms.
This makes pulling out the rear axles a 2 second job and much easier for storage and transport.


Whereabouts are you going to be sailing, vacant airstrip, beaches, car parks?
How are you going to transport it -trailer, van or station wagon?


stephen

Hi there,

The bits and bobs are being gathered..just need most of the tubing now and I can get started!..First cut planned for Sunday. Just one question. How important is seamless tubing for the main spine? Found a nice bit of scaffolding pipe, but not seamless. Obviously realise seamless has a higher tensile strength but will the strain the main spine is put under to anywhere near high enough to cause a problem?

thanks!

Lesley

Gizmo said..
Seamless tubing is used on Class5 yachts...

Mini5.6 yachts don't need seamless tube for the main spine.

gizmo is right, weve built plenty of minis with Galv fence/sign posts. 1.6mm wall is ideal. try and get around 60mm OD and that will take your mast as well. regards the front fork, if you are using a bike wheel./axle you are going to need a double sided fork. our single sided forks have axles of 16mm or greater

Hi Guys,

Just one more quick question before I shut up and JFDI,

Stephen said

"-Recently, some of the crew have been moving the mast step further forward and a little more upright so bigger sails can be used, which seems to work well"

Also read somewhere else about a LLF built to plan lifting a bit at the front. Bearing in mind I'm probably slightly lighter than an 'average' land yachter (although not hugely), should I be thinking about setting the mast a wee bit further forward than the plan shows?..If so any thought on how much?

cheers!

Shipjack

It's started! The welds do n't bear up to close scrutiny but I can only assume I'll get better at it as the project progresses!

Lincolnshire beaches!!!!, I still remember as a tacker going to cleethorpes and couldnt even see the sea from on top of the pier!!!

Great to see these new Miniyacht builds, well done folks. You should join the British Landsailing Facebook page of information and to meet up with others, also lots of info available on the International Miniyacht (5.60) Class Association Facebook page too.

Keep building and posting.

Cheers

Alan
www.iPKSA.com

Depending on the diameter of mast step(holder), an old tow ball or solid bar in a vice could work hit with ball of ballpein hammer

TeamWally said...
SJ, an anvil can be anything that does the job, from a rock to a 5 cwt blacksmiths anvil! Anything that is reasonably solid, fits inside the your tubing and allows you to tilt the tube enough to form the lip with your hammer is good enough. Just keep rotating the tube around and work the lip as you go.

Mick

Here is a picture from another post of a kid working the flare into the mast step tube. Check out how he is using some clamps and some pipe for an anvil. I figured a pic might help.

Well, just about finished. All that remains is bolting the seat on, cool paint job and name, row lock on end of boom and seat belt and we're done! Thanks for your help and advice and particular thanks to landyacht for the plans which I more or less followed. Only slight changes were shifting the mast forward a bit (second time around..ta chook!), 5 degree rake and overall length 50 mm shorter (not on purpose!). It's been a heap of fun to build and considering I did nt know one end of a welder from the other , not had I ever used an angle grinder, I'm pretty chuffed.

You probably live on the side of a hill

Woo hoo !!!!
Looks great
Looking forward to a sailing report

And of course pictures showing all of the above