What is a big wave?

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Plummet
Plummet
4862 posts
4862 posts
12 Jun 2013 2:39pm
So....

What is a big wave?
Whats your ideal wave size?
How do you measure waves? I measure in head heights.

here's my view.

Up to shoulder high Small.
Head to double head Medium.
double to tripple head BIG
tripple + monster

My ideal wave is probably 1 to 1.5 head. Double head gets pretty ring puckering.
Anything above double head is pretty terrifying.....


Chris6791
Chris6791
WA
3271 posts
WA, 3271 posts
12 Jun 2013 4:29pm
It's all relative. We are not all as crazy as you are Plummet. Anything over head height I consider large.
surfingboye
surfingboye
NSW
2707 posts
NSW, 2707 posts
12 Jun 2013 7:08pm
when people say it was pretty small, "only 10 foot or so".
you get to beach with indo gun in hand ready to charge. look at the surf and its less than dbl overhead...
ahhhhh, the old measuring from the face system.
Plummet
Plummet
4862 posts
4862 posts
12 Jun 2013 6:20pm
I always found measuring the back of the wave pointless. Do you ride the back? Why measure it?
Dl33ta
Dl33ta
TAS
463 posts
TAS, 463 posts
12 Jun 2013 8:55pm
Is a 4ft midget surfing a double over head wave twice as glorious as a bohemouth 7ft guy surfing a head high wave? I tripped on the lip of a 6ft'er and fell down into the trough face first at speed, stars everywhere, at that point I was concerned about the height of the back of the wave
surfingboye
surfingboye
NSW
2707 posts
NSW, 2707 posts
12 Jun 2013 8:55pm
nah, i dont usually ride the back of the wave. lol.

when you read the coastalwatch report or hear the radio report they are always using a measurement of the rear of the wave.
i generally use the system referencing to 'head' when its big, over double head height.
otherwise when its small referenced to the rear of the wave (just to make it easy when talking to other surfers etc.)

NSW, 4382 posts
12 Jun 2013 9:13pm
Its all relative, most waves humungous compared to me!
Plummet
Plummet
4862 posts
4862 posts
12 Jun 2013 7:21pm
Dl33ta said..

Is a 4ft midget surfing a double over head wave twice as glorious as a bohemouth 7ft guy surfing a head high wave? I tripped on the lip of a 6ft'er and fell down into the trough face first at speed, stars everywhere, at that point I was concerned about the height of the back of the wave


Definitely the midget riding double head!
austin
austin
671 posts
671 posts
12 Jun 2013 7:34pm
I measure in good old masts! When there's poles out there and they disappear behind the back of a wave then its on. I just live for these days. Been out a couple of times this season in 1 1/2 mast and once bigger than than, nobody out to see but then you'd be mental to take on the outer reef at Point Moore on a windsurfer when it's busting like the other week, retrospectively not a good idea on your own and could have potentially been in trouble if the **** did hit the whirly blade.
surfingboye
surfingboye
NSW
2707 posts
NSW, 2707 posts
12 Jun 2013 10:43pm
So how do you judge a day when you can't see the trough of the wave because its blocked from the wave in front?
A couple of examples of this:





Hunter S
Hunter S
WA
516 posts
WA, 516 posts
12 Jun 2013 9:38pm
surfingboye said..

So how do you judge a day when you can't see the trough of the wave because its blocked from the wave in front?
A couple of examples of this:







Size doesn't matter when your so far out on the face that the wave isn't even breaking.
tightlines
tightlines
WA
3509 posts
WA, 3509 posts
12 Jun 2013 10:03pm
surfingboye said..

So how do you judge a day when you can't see the trough of the wave because its blocked from the wave in front?





TurtleHunter
TurtleHunter
WA
1675 posts
WA, 1675 posts
12 Jun 2013 11:36pm
My local waves only get to waist hight but it's the depth that we like to talk about. It's either knee, waist, ankle or dry as the desert deep till you hit the reef.
Dave Whettingsteel
Dave Whettingsteel
WA
1397 posts
WA, 1397 posts
13 Jun 2013 12:11am
austin said..

I measure in good old masts! When there's poles out there and they disappear behind the back of a wave then its on. I just live for these days. Been out a couple of times this season in 1 1/2 mast and once bigger than than, nobody out to see but then you'd be mental to take on the outer reef at Point Moore on a windsurfer when it's busting like the other week, retrospectively not a good idea on your own and could have potentially been in trouble if the **** did hit the whirly blade.


Above mast height , which is maybe 2.5 head high is scary i reckon. But coming in, no worries... Getting out through big braking waves...phew that's my challenge..
gcdave
gcdave
534 posts
534 posts
13 Jun 2013 12:19am
What is a big wave?

Any wave you think twice about lacing one strapless and switched frontside down the line. Anything smaller is just another day in the office
Spartan
Spartan
VIC
42 posts
VIC, 42 posts
13 Jun 2013 9:32am
Well Teahupoo is a classic example on why measuring the back of waves dosnt make sence.
On a 10-20 ft face Teahupoo has a 1ft back end so based on those measurements is it big or small.
Go figure

surfingboye
surfingboye
NSW
2707 posts
NSW, 2707 posts
13 Jun 2013 7:29pm
haha i love this topic...

Hunter S said..
Size doesn't matter when your so far out on the face that the wave isn't even breaking.


bahahaha, nah thats not me just some kook i found on the net...
yeah what a pussy!


tightlines, great example. i thought i had one similar to that but it must have been deleted.

so what if there is nothing on the wave to reference it too.
how big is it then?

posted somewhere here before but seems relevant...


lol.

Plummet
Plummet
4862 posts
4862 posts
13 Jun 2013 6:12pm
Oh that is going to hurt!
vendeavours
vendeavours
VIC
361 posts
VIC, 361 posts
13 Jun 2013 10:18pm
Also my ideal wave height is 1to2 head But there are waves and waves, Nice clean face and breaking away in to deep channel,

' love it' and then wave that just do not hold up and dumps

Plummet
Plummet
4862 posts
4862 posts
14 Jun 2013 3:10am
since we are posting wave pics heres one of my local breaks. I've posted it before but im sure you don't mind

prea
prea
QLD
184 posts
QLD, 184 posts
14 Jun 2013 9:21am
surfingboye said..

haha i love this topic...

Hunter S said..
Size doesn't matter when your so far out on the face that the wave isn't even breaking.


bahahaha, nah thats not me just some kook i found on the net...
yeah what a pussy!


tightlines, great example. i thought i had one similar to that but it must have been deleted.

so what if there is nothing on the wave to reference it too.
how big is it then?

posted somewhere here before but seems relevant...


lol.




good kite skills would come in handy in this situation
austin
austin
671 posts
671 posts
14 Jun 2013 8:19am
id call that mast and a half,

Been caught up like this before, best way out if to figure 8 the kite, keep the kite powered and forget about the board...unless its on a leggy
waveslave
waveslave
WA
4263 posts
WA, 4263 posts
14 Jun 2013 9:22am



In this situation, ^^^

fly the kite back and head out to sea,

and confront the wave.

It takes courage.

Swoop the kite back over the wave and pullstring yourself thru it.

Keep the pressure on your front hand on the kitebar.

Try to dive as 'deep' as possible under the foam, that's not easy when you are hooked up to a chicken loop.

If you remain back-to-the-wave,

like the kiter shown in the pic,

the kitelines will lose tension when the foamball smashes and tumbles you,

and your kite will fall out of the sky.

lol.

cauncy
cauncy
WA
8407 posts
WA, 8407 posts
14 Jun 2013 9:46am
waveslave said...



In this situation, ^^^

fly the kite back and head out to sea,

and confront the wave.

It takes courage.

Swoop the kite back over the wave and pullstring yourself thru it.

Keep the pressure on your front hand on the kitebar.

Try to dive as 'deep' as possible under the foam, that's not easy when you are hooked up to a chicken loop.

If you remain back-to-the-wave,

like the kiter shown in the pic,

the kitelines will lose tension when the foamball smashes and tumbles you,

and your kite will fall out of the sky.

lol.



Yeh and scream at the wave as if you own the ocean, then as you pop through the other side shout is that all you've got and take on the next mother of a set, its good to be alive, or you could just sit there and wait for the inevitable
eppo
eppo
WA
9790 posts
WA, 9790 posts
14 Jun 2013 10:06am
He could consider body dragging Awayfrom the wave then at the last second before it hits throw that kite across the window and try some speed and air to hit the top of the white water. ?? Gonna hurt either way.
surfingboye
surfingboye
NSW
2707 posts
NSW, 2707 posts
14 Jun 2013 12:32pm
That pic was taken of me the same session as the others I posted up, super offshore and gusty that day!.,
My board got washed in after I came off a wave. I body dragged back out the back, but the waves were relentless with no gaps between the sets...
I decided I just had to try and gun it back in. Got into the breaking zone and got hit by this mother of a set.
Kept tension in the lines and flew the kite in figure of 8, back and forth through the window.
Was rag dolled by the whitewash for a bit but all good.
Lol.

Supergus
Supergus
NSW
305 posts
NSW, 305 posts
14 Jun 2013 1:39pm
surfingboye said..

That pic was taken of me the same session as the others I posted up, super offshore and gusty that day!.,
My board got washed in after I came off a wave. I body dragged back out the back, but the waves were relentless with no gaps between the sets...
I decided I just had to try and gun it back in. Got into the breaking zone and got hit by this mother of a set.
Kept tension in the lines and flew the kite in figure of 8, back and forth through the window.
Was rag dolled by the whitewash for a bit but all good.
Lol.



I love that photo surfingboy, I can't help but chuckle when I see it.. Been in that situation before and know the feeling. Awesome!
sebol
sebol
WA
753 posts
WA, 753 posts
14 Jun 2013 12:34pm
cauncy said..

waveslave said...



In this situation, ^^^

fly the kite back and head out to sea,

and confront the wave.

It takes courage.

Swoop the kite back over the wave and pullstring yourself thru it.

Keep the pressure on your front hand on the kitebar.

Try to dive as 'deep' as possible under the foam, that's not easy when you are hooked up to a chicken loop.

If you remain back-to-the-wave,

like the kiter shown in the pic,

the kitelines will lose tension when the foamball smashes and tumbles you,

and your kite will fall out of the sky.

lol.



Yeh and scream at the wave as if you own the ocean, then as you pop through the other side shout is that all you've got and take on the next mother of a set, its good to be alive, or you could just sit there and wait for the inevitable


Or engage the repetitive kite loop trigger to body drag safely away from that breaking lip and only get rumble by the foam (decent rumble based on that pic tho)
EnglishCraig
EnglishCraig
NSW
406 posts
NSW, 406 posts
14 Jun 2013 2:51pm
Big wave is anything that makes u go "if I screw up in f$$&$?d!!!!!!
Plummet
Plummet
4862 posts
4862 posts
14 Jun 2013 1:25pm
sebol said..

cauncy said..

waveslave said...



In this situation, ^^^

fly the kite back and head out to sea,

and confront the wave.

It takes courage.

Swoop the kite back over the wave and pullstring yourself thru it.

Keep the pressure on your front hand on the kitebar.

Try to dive as 'deep' as possible under the foam, that's not easy when you are hooked up to a chicken loop.

If you remain back-to-the-wave,

like the kiter shown in the pic,

the kitelines will lose tension when the foamball smashes and tumbles you,

and your kite will fall out of the sky.

lol.



Yeh and scream at the wave as if you own the ocean, then as you pop through the other side shout is that all you've got and take on the next mother of a set, its good to be alive, or you could just sit there and wait for the inevitable


Or engage the repetitive kite loop trigger to body drag safely away from that breaking lip and only get rumble by the foam (decent rumble based on that pic tho)


yeah I've done that before. smashed some kite loops and body dragged back to the beach. To my surprise I caught the wave started to kitebodysurf then when up and planning on my chest I was surprised again. Rather than get swamped by the white wash I speed up and burnt the white wash off with some high speed body surf action.

Very cool.
eppo
eppo
WA
9790 posts
WA, 9790 posts
14 Jun 2013 1:30pm
That was you sufingboye...damn! Your nuts must have been near your chin and your sphincter the size of needle looking up at that big ass wall of water! Damn! Can't say I have ever been in that situation!
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