Does anyone have any (Practical) advice on what I should do to stop my shed colorbond walls rusting?




Details:
**Built around 7 years ago.
**25Km from the coast.
**Concrete slab went down first, then shed built around it.
**Filled in the gaps between the slab and wall sheets with a cement / mortar mix to prevent vermin entering. (I think this is where the issue is)
**Lined the shed with timber ply sheets and fibreglass insulation.
**Rust is random around the shed, even in parts where there is no scoria.

Is there really a magic cure available or are they all BS?

Thanks
G.

Bituminous paint.... used in roof and gutter repairs.

Should be available at Bumblings..... If you can find someone to help you.... If they have to know what your talking about....If they can remember where it is on the shelf...... Good luck!!!

check the compatibility of the bituminous paint with the colorbond- lots of coatings have an undesirable reaction with colorbond

Build that blue metal up another 50mm or so and you won't even know it's rusting!

Stop pissing on the side of your shed

-Dampen surfaces with water,

-Spray with R10 rust converter [from auto-one type shops] bigger bottles are better, and lots more cost effective.
IIRC its non toxic, but wear gloves as it stains your skin.

-Leave for 24 hours to do its magic,

-Spray with penetrol [bunnings- in the paint section]

-After a couple of days drying, its ready for painting.

-If you buy pressure packs of penetrol, make sure you shake the cans heaps- and often while using it- or it will block nozzles.
Penetrol is also in 1 litre tins- I think you can use it in spray bottles [but havent tried it that way myself.]

Penetrol can also be mixed with paint to make it rust resistant, and spread better.

Using the above will be an almost permanent fix.
Then
-I would dig out around the shed, and pour a foundation of concrete hard up against the slab.
-Measure up the height of a couple of rows of bricks and cut the tin with a nibbler [easier than tinsnips] do not use a grinder!
-Fit flashing as you work your way along with the brickwork.

Start at back of shed, or where its out of sight- by the time you do the visible bits you will have learnt how to make it look smickoh.


Stephen

buy a metal cuting blade (cold saw ) fit it in circular saw cost $70 from bunnings cutting with tin snips around a whole shed you will end up with rsi. Its the quickest easiest way to cut

Thanks for your ideas / recommendations.

I will implement a bit from all of you (Except changing my user name)

Probably wait till next summer and cut it out (Low temp method) and replace with synthetic board and some flashing.

It is going to be a pain to do along the fence line, I will have to do it from the inside...

Thanks fellas.

GG.

of course you can use a grinder!!!! fit it with ultrathin cutting disc . no wrries
then the biuminous or the penetrol or others.
ahve a look at getting the water away from the edge of the shed as well ,
should have gone zinc alum

The advice re; "don't cut with a grinder" came from my brother years ago (plumber). I own a shed with zinc roof sheeting that's rusted along the top edge due to being cut with a grinder (by previous owner). I've also seen colorbond begin to corrode along bottom edges cut with grinders, although going by the colorbond website, the recommendation of 'cold saw' blades seem ok. The issue seems to be damage to the plastic protective coating.

Living right next to the coast, I take any rust prevention advice on board.

"When sheets need to be cut on site the most suitable technique is with nibblers or power saws with metal cutting blades (tin snips can be used although they are difficult to use on profiled sheeting). The use of cutting discs and grinding wheels is not recommended as they generate very hot particles which can damage the coating.

BlueScope Steel recommends the use of cold cutting saw with appropriate blades."

colorbond.com/why-colorbond-steel

With steel sheds that I've built (or helped friends build), I always opt for footings for the columns, then pour an infill slab. Where the slab meets the iron cladding, I've found the best product to be 10mm 'brickies' polyethylene foam strip fixed to the walls & can be used as a screeding level line. This allows a buffer between mediums and also provides a control for slab movement.

Sailhack said...

62mac said...
Any solutions to get rust stains off a tiled floor?Tiles are non slip around pool.

CLR?

I gave that ago mate no luck or should I leave to soak in I was a bit concerned it would eat the tiles