On my third cheap petrol pole saw whippersnappers thingo in four years. The carburetor has got a blockage somewhere within the air intake. It dies when I push the acceleration, very frustrating.
I've already watched some you tube videos, taken this one apart and tried to clean it, but didn't work. I've had the same issue with the other two. I only seem to get a season or two out of them before problems start. They are so cheap, that I have just made the same mistake of buying another one hoping the next one would last a bit longer.
I won't buy another one, but can you fix them, is it worth the effort, and what tools do you need?
Are u sure it's air? I have a suggestion based on fuel blockage on my son's motorcycle that nobody could diagnose and we found almost by mistake
Are u sure it's air? I have a suggestion based on fuel blockage on my son's motorcycle that nobody could diagnose and we found almost by mistake
No, just assumed air. Choke on it starts runs. Choke off it runs then dies after a minute. Apply acceleration with choke off it accellerates briefly before dying. Some blockage in the internals. Is there something I can soak it in to help dissolve the blockage?
I'm always very careful with fuel oil mixture.
Can't you just spray aerosol fuel in it as you start it I've seen deodorant work but I use the little camping butane cans with a pilfered wd40 cap on it
I remember gluing a little china motor back together with JBWeld, worked for another year or so. So the answer is, yes you can fix them but if you have a job it's a waste of your valuable time.
So try to fix it, send it to a specialist to fix, or buy another one? If so what brand will get me 5 years use, if I look after it, and will be cost effective and not let me down.
I don't want anything electric - not suitable.
Can't you just spray aerosol fuel in it as you start it I've seen deodorant work but I use the little camping butane cans with a pilfered wd40 cap on it
NO, took the c(!)nt apart and soaked it in rp7 and cleaned as much as I could.
Carbys work on a Venturi system the jets allow little amount of fuel into the air being sucked into the engine, if they are restricted you can enrich the fuel/ air ratio with the choke to keep the engine running sort of. Compressed air is the most common way to clear the jets, could also be air leaks in the manifold gasket.
buy a Honda sthil or husky for real small motor joy
I'm technical and like to fix things. But going to the shed when it's +30C arv to "quickly" mow a few weeds, my patience level is very low. As my whipa-snippa application is very very light/quick, I now have a corded whippa-snippa that works a treat. All I need is 10min of reliability, a power cored device provides that. Those small engines can be problematic if they are sparingly used. Good luck.
A joke to my working bee friend at Boggy lake many years ago
: 
I'm technical and like to fix things. But going to the shed when it's +30C arv to "quickly" mow a few weeds, my patience level is very low. As my whipa-snippa application is very very light/quick, I now have a corded whippa-snippa that works a treat. All I need is 10min of reliability, a power cored device provides that. Those small engines can be problematic if they are sparely used. Good luck.
A joke to my working bee friend at Boggy lake many years ago
: 
Yes, used mainly late spring and in autumn. I have a fair bit of hedging and small trees that I have to stay on top of as well as whippersnipping. The 4 in 1s do the job pretty well for at least one season, but incredibly frustrating when they stop working and I buy another piece of sh1t. It's been the same problem with three of them now. I'd love to get to the bottom of what goes wrong with them.
I'm skeptical about spending $$$ on a good brand and having same issues.
Stihl do a great multi tool. But the tiny motor doesn't like sitting for six months with fuel in the line
Had a similar problem with a small chainsaw, tried replacing the carby and the problem persisted, found a post on a forum that suggested that the problem was most likely a deteriorating fuel line and sure enough that was it. It was allowing air into the fuel before it got to the carby, a few cents worth of fuel line from the big green shed and the saw lives again. ![]()
I'm voting fuel delivery as well from the description. Maybe sucking air in somewhere, or not delivering fuel.
I had a brand new Stihl chainsaw once. Ran perfect for the first tank of fuel, second tank did very similar to what msn described. I had a poke around, didn't want to take too much to bits on a new saw (rather just take it back for warranty), but noticed the fuel line pickup / filter in the tank was twisted. Quick untwist of the filter on the end of the line and its been fine ever since.
Had a spark plug on something else recently not work out of the box. NGK brand so nothing rubbish. Changed plug at service, but then it wouldn't fire, changed to old plug and another new one and ran fine with both. I'd say pretty rare for a plug to fail from new, but not impossible I suppose.
Get an electric one. Either battery or 240 if you need a lot of grunt. Make half as much noise for the neighbours to endure.
Those fuel lines are typically far from fuel resistant - have a great tendency to stiffen and crack/split. Certainly worth a look.
If you end up convinced it's the carb, look at buying a replacement carb. They're very cheap.... and you get what you pay for.
Carb on my 20yr B&S mower failed a couple of years ago - got a cheap replacement carb off ebay for less than $20 delivered. Granted, that cheap carb lasted 12 months. But hey, I'm a hoarder of bits and pieces, so still had the original, so was able to mix and match and fix what I had.
With a cheap unit, it could be harder to determine the correct replacement carb, but it's likely used on a 1000 similar units, so will be most likely be available.
RP7 is going to do nothing
drown it in carbie cleaner then check all the above and new fuel
filter clean?
my suggestion was going to be based on all that having been done so not yet.
There is a difference with quality. My Stihl pro model chainsaw would start first time whether it was hot or cold or sat for two years.
quality is quality
if you have lots of work to do in a big area- petrol
5ah is bugger all you greenies
Had a similar problem with a small chainsaw, tried replacing the carby and the problem persisted, found a post on a forum that suggested that the problem was most likely a deteriorating fuel line and sure enough that was it. It was allowing air into the fuel before it got to the carby, a few cents worth of fuel line from the big green shed and the saw lives again. ![]()
$10 on Temu for a new carb including delivery. Worth a try I reckon. I doubt it's one of the two hoses as I inspected them when I took it apart and they look fine, are flexible and look new.
Nope
just the setup of fuel mixture is harder than making ur existing one work
I have no issues starting it. Will try drowning carb in a carbie cleaning mixture. I'd really like to figure out the issue as I'm on my third one.
I'm thinking now it's how I store it as it hangs vertically over winter. Maybe storing it horizontaly could be issue.
A minute running after turning off the choke is a long time. Possibly blocked fuel cap vent or maybe the fuel filter.
I have all Stihl gear and used to follow their manuals instructions religeously when storing, ie draining the fuel.
After the second time of having to take the chainsaw back to get the shop to weave their voodoo magic on getting it started, the Stihl agent advised leave them stored with a full tank and to make sure the fuel has a stabilising agent in it.
Quite a few years later, everything starts after a few pulls even the kit which only gets used once a year.
It turns out theres a rubber diaphragm in there which starts breaking up if it dries out.
The other issue I had was carbon build up in the muffler which killed of higher revs. The muffer has a spark arrester (a piece of wire mesh) in the muffler, this can get sooted up, their cure was to remove the muffler, and blow a propane torch thorugh it to burn out the carbon, they also removed the mesh as well.
Carbys work on a Venturi system ....
I think the chinese carburetors work on a wenturi system.
Which reminds me,
I stripped a carby once. Cleaned it, put it all back together and at the end I had a plate, a shaft, a lever, and a bi-metallic spring left over. No choke.
myscreenname called the mechanic because her car wouldn't start. The mechanic spend a few minutes and got it running again. "What was it ?" she asked. "Oh, just sh!t in the carburetor" the mechanic replied. "How often do I have to do that ?" myscreenname exclaimed.
Turns out getting a new carburetor from Temu works out cheaper than going to bunnings and buying some carburetor cleaner.
That begs the question, how much is carburetor cleaner on temu?
Everything is free but they sell your bank credentials and you end up fighting with your bank for months over **** you didnt buy
Just use ebay same chinese **** but they never get your bank details ebays a far better safer middleman
eBay and Temu are two different e-commerce platforms with varying levels of purchasing security. Here's a comparison:
eBay's Security Features
1. *Money Back Guarantee*: eBay offers a money-back guarantee, protecting buyers against counterfeit or non-delivery of items.
2. *PayPal Protection*: eBay's partnership with PayPal provides an additional layer of security, allowing buyers to pay without sharing financial information.
3. *Verified Rights Owner (VeRO) Program*: eBay's VeRO program helps protect intellectual property rights, reducing the risk of counterfeit items.
4. *Feedback System*: eBay's feedback system allows buyers to rate sellers, promoting accountability and trust.
Temu's Security Features
1. *Buyer Protection*: Temu offers a buyer protection policy, which provides refunds or re-shipments for undelivered or defective items.
2. *Secure Payment*: Temu uses secure payment gateways, such as PayPal and credit card processors, to protect buyers' financial information.
3. *Seller Verification*: Temu claims to verify sellers' identities and businesses, although the extent of this verification is unclear.
Key Differences
1. *Established Reputation*: eBay has a longer history and a more established reputation, which can contribute to a sense of security for buyers.
2. *More Robust Feedback System*: eBay's feedback system is more comprehensive, allowing buyers to make informed decisions about sellers.
3. *Additional Security Measures*: eBay's VeRO program and Money Back Guarantee provide additional layers of protection for buyers.
Why Temu Might Be Riskier
1. *Less Established Reputation*: Temu is a relatively new platform, which can make it harder for buyers to gauge sellers' reliability.
2. *Fewer Security Measures*: Temu's security features, while present, might not be as comprehensive as eBay's.
3. *Higher Risk of Counterfeits*: Temu's focus on affordable, generic products might increase the risk of counterfeit items.
Keep in mind that both platforms have their strengths and weaknesses. While eBay might have more robust security features, Temu might offer more competitive pricing or unique products.
When shopping on either platform, remember to:
1. Research sellers thoroughly
2. Read reviews and feedback
3. Understand the return and refund policies
4. Use secure payment methods
5. Be cautious of extremely low prices or suspicious listings
OP reminded me my edger wouldn't run. It would start after many pulls if fuel was sprayed into the carb. It would only run if the choke was half on.
Thirty minutes poking with a stainless wire, blowing though with a big syringe, a bit of carby spray and it started first pull and idled right away.

?ived in a surf squat where it took 3 of us everytime to start the mower one on the butane spray one holding open a flap with a lit match and the other to try start it all of us yelling in unison and jumping away incase we all died
I miss the good old days ?f 2023
I spent that much on degreaser!
Yes, kind of unbelievable how cheap this Temu stuff is. I think it got here in a week also. Was also surprised to see all the parts for unit freely available.
I was dreading thinking of having to fork out $$$$ for another four-in-one unit.
We need photos matey im particularly interested in seeing any seams that hopefully dont come apart after a bit of use
I wouldnt mind seeing its actual name model number etc just to see if its even available anywhere other then temu and how much. 10$ really is like.... 5 dollers not even half a decade ago so like what a doller a pop 20 years ago?
One thing ive learnt from my questi?nably cheap ebay purchases is to keep the original for a little while sometimes ill need to scavenge the carcass for parts cause the cheap versions used plastic rather then metal in some parts etc (the difference between 30$ side mirrors and 500$ toyota ones for example)