I came across an article where Tom Wegener was awarded shaper of the year by one of the magazines. Tom builds and surfs traditional Hawaiian surf boards. I remembered seeing footage of him surfing in the film Seaworthy. I did some research and found his website www.tomwegenersurfboards.com/ The long boards he is surfing are up to 18', have a rounded bottom and are designed to catch ocean swells before they break. Here is a video -