Jean-Francois writes
Over the last few weeks I finally overcome the fear of paddling through the Heads on my own riding a ocean racing ski (Honcho Guevara - 5m80). I have been a kayaker for about 6 years now mainly inside the harbour. Two years ago, inspired by a 70 year old man on a surfski, I decided that it was time to change crafts! I could not keep up with him on my Mirage 580 no matter how hard I was paddling. I convinced myself that it must be the craft, I also noticed that they were skinny, long and people ususlly carry them under one arm after a paddle as they walk up the beach. So, I bought my first ocean racing ski, an OzFlyte Seamaster (6m40). After a long learning curve, lessons from Leechy (thanks mate) and and later one meeting Dean Gardiner, I joined training classes, learn the technique and last year did a few races. It has been a whole new experience as the harbour has become increasingly accessible due to the speed of the ski. Eventually, I became more and more attracted by the ocean and having seen photographs of people riding huge swells all over the world (surfski.info), it has taken me all up 2 year to master the ski, and another to get used to my new craft and perfect the technique so I could paddle further and learn to conserve energy, use the power of the water.
A couple of weeks ago, conditions have been favorable (thanks Seabreeze.com.au!) and I took it upon myself to venture out of the Heads early one morning at sunrise. After a few goes, I can now venture further away and learning how to read the swell and the backwash from the cliff, it is now sheer pleasure. Now, every morning after having checked conditions, I take my ski out through the Heads on a regular basis and explored the coast line (mostly south) and once maybe 1-1.5km straight out. I have had numerous dolphin encounters of which one stands out. There was 2 meter swell coming from the south and moving rapidly along the cliff face. All of a sudden, I saw a large number of fins in the swell! Two seconds of instant anxiety was quickly replaced by sheer excitement at the thought of surfing with them. I managed to turn my craft quickly enough to surf with them for 10 minutes all the way back to the Heads. They were close enough for me to hear them come up to the surface to breath, they were at arms length all around me and even playing under my ski. There was a sense of indescribable calm and well being, being part of the scene, one with the swell, the dolphins. I still carry that picture in my mind, it brings back that same feeling!
Please do yourself a favour, get on a ski, learn and try it, you will be rewarded beyond belief. Even if you do not encounter dolphins, it's the element of space, loosing track of time, feeling empowered, facing your own fears and once you achieve that, everything else is irrelevant!
Enjoy!
Jean-Francois
ps. thanks to Deano for this brilliant new paddle (Orka), oh, I almost forgot, don't be macho, put on a life vest and use a paddle leash (you will fall off and the last thing you want in big swell is to have to worry about a paddle, also learn how to remount in different conditions! Be responsible and sensible!) ;-)
Byron Bay, NSW
