At 16 and straight from central Qld, I got a lesson in surfing by my older brother. He handed me his board, pointed to the 5ft swell at Evoca Beach, NSW. Surprisingly, I managed to get out past the swell. Unsurprising, I was in a rip and found myself 50m out past the others. Jumped off, swam back to shore and advised his board doesn't work and never tried again. Fast forward 15 yrs & 20kg, I sat at Maroochy Beach watching the Kitesurfers RIP IT UP! Even better, when they came to shore most...
