I was watching a surf movie back in the mid 60s, can't remember the movie, but can never forget just one small section of footage. It showed a very un-surfer guy surfing.
What I can remember was:
> I'm pretty sure it was Sunset at a good size
> the guy was a switch footer
> he was short fat, bald and kinda really old looking
He looked nothing like the archetypal blond haired, stompy wompy surfer boys of the day, matter'0'fact, he looked like my Italian mates dad who ran the local fruit & vegetable shop.
for some unknown reason, that image stayed with me for most of my life, maybe because I thought, "wow, if that fat old turd can surf big waves, maybe I can do it" .
Move forward a half a century to last night and I find this image of the Makaha International contestants lined up and ready for the the 1960 final
and there he was, third from the left, turns out his name is Conrad Canha and he was not some fat old turd, he was a very well respected and not so old surfer back in the day.
http://encyclopediaofsurfing.com/entries/canha-conrad Funny the way a memory works, I can't remember what I had for lunch today, but after 50 years I could still remember the footage of this guy surfing.
go figure