All my whingeing about lack of wind caught up with me today.

Big swell, heaps of wind, I got totally hammered!!!!

Dropped the kite in the drink 3 or 4 times, I can't believe it's still in one piece, albeit dripping wet in the shed now.

While I was dealing with a downed kite in 4-6 foot swells, the slamming shorebreak creased the nose on my favorite surf board.

Had to go out on the twin tip. Again, got hammered.

Attempted to boost over a crashing set, got the timing wrong, powerful wave smacked the board violently up, heard both knees go 'crack' fraction of a second before knee slammed into my jaw. Still feel a bit wonky in the head and legs from that one.

Had one hold down hooked into the kite where I couldn't even get my hands to the release, really thought it was all over.

Sitting home, having a calming xmas ale, kinda feeling lucky to be alive. Water pouring out of nose every time I move my head.

That was the heaviest session I have ever had.

F#@ked up, going away next week, don't know how I'm going to get my board fixed by then.

Feeling humbled by nature.