Scored Thickshakes for the LABO/LAGO. Thats late arfternoon bump off into a late afternoon (semi) glass off.
Only me and waist high waves.
First infront of the viewing platform with sucky take-offs, knee deep ledge, going left or going right. Once it got fat it reformed into a nice curl. Had hoots from the gallery.
Paddled over to my little left where the 11'2 comes out to play. Longer rides and some nice little curls... old school! I was frothing. Blinded by the camera flashes with the sunsetting behind me. Magic.
Its 3am and the wind has swung offshore! just enough time for a couple of hours sleep, wake up, call my boss to tell him that my 11'2 is on fire and I need to put it out!
Back to the place where the shakes are empty and free from those pesky lickety-splits