I was initially bummed that I had to head down the coast last weekend and help out my oldies on their property. I had waited ages for such an epic swell and had was looking forward to some solid barrel time on the shortboard.
But there is always a silver lining, and that lining was a super fun session on my 8'11" Throwdown scroing some sunrise waves at a few local breaks down south.

I actually surfed 4 different breaks on Saturday morning, starting with a head high A frame reef which was a little too inconsistent and crowded for my liking, but still scored a beautiful first wave right through to the rock shelf, so I paddled down to the point where I scored one right through to the inside. Paddled further down to another right hand reef scoring a fun one and ended up surfing at a super fun little river mouth with a heap of people I hadn't seen in ages, sharing waves, laughing and having a ball.

How good is surfing? I'm still smiling